Big Bald Banding Station 2019 and Fall 2019 State Meeting of the Tennessee Ornithological Society

I hadn’t been up to the bird banding station at Big Bald in a couple of years.

It is always a treat to watch Dr. Mark Hopey do his work and I envy the student volunteers that help him. Banding can make for some long days, too, but I suspect all who have helped still remember being at the station. He gets his students from Mars Hill College in Mars Hill, N.C. and from Haywood Community College in Clyde, N.C., about 25 miles west of Asheville. The students are very fortunate to get this close, hands-on training, and exceptional experience in the great outdoors. Up here in the hills, we take great pride that our kids are interested in nature and the woods and rivers. There’s never too much time spent on the balds, in the rapids, or exploring the wilderness.

We were visiting the station this time as part of the weekend hosting by the Herndon Chapter of TOS (also known as the Elizabethton Bird Club) of the society’s fall, state meeting. Over 65 people registered for the weekend and we had seven non-club members join on the trek out to the banding station. Of that group we’d all been to a banding station sometime in our lives.

The Big Bald station sits on the Appalachian Trail just a notch east of where the trail, I-26, and the N.C./Tennessee state line intersect. To get to the station, drive into North Carolina on I-26, double back through Wolf Laurel Community (gated), and then hike along the trail (northbound) with Tennessee to your left and North Carolina to your right. If the trail is accurate as a boundary the station sits on the Tennessee side but most of the spectators stand in North Carolina! Of course, the view is priceless, as it is on the balds at Carver’s Gap, even with the current hazy heat.

But for many people along the trail, as it is for the students, this is one of those rare moments. You’re lucky to see a bird within ten feet and here you get to see them from two feet. Makes a world of difference. And even if you have watched birds for some time seeing them up close is always a new perspective. Mark takes the time to explain what he is doing and to show us the fine points of avian anatomy.

This station has been in business 50 years. For more information try: https://bigbaldbanding.org/big-bald-banding-station/

It’s not all picnic. All the stuff needed: tables, chairs, tools, paper sacks, food, canopy, books, data sheets, have to be hauled up on someone’s back. It’s not the longest walk but it can be more than enough. The adventure is worth the work.
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Kayaking Fontana Lake

My first kayak venture! It was a blast! Let’s get that much said at first. What a cool event even if we only were gone two nights. (Pictures to follow.)

I pride myself in being a good canoeist but a kayak is not only a different beast, getting my maiden in the deep waters of Fontana Lake is itself quite a start.

The kayaks were single-person lake kayaks and tandem lake kayaks. For what it’s worth, ours was red! A tandem can carry quite a load in addition to us paddlers. In fact, it got so loaded it was hard to lift. There were eight of us and for the overnight at Proctor, N.C., we had to take tents, water, food, fuel, and all kinds of personal gear. In six kayaks. (All colors!)

Our first night out was car camping since we arrived at Fontana well after dark from Johnson City. To find us on the maps, go south from Johnson City to Asheville, N.C., then west  past Cherokee, on past Bryson City and into upper reach of the lake. But, you have to go to Fontana Dam to get permits and such. So the drive, while very nice, and way back in there, is a bit long.

If you were continue slight south-westerly further into the toe of North Carolina you would be near Andrews where Eric Rudolph eluded the FBI for so many years.

If you cross the lake at the dam you are near Deals Gap, home of the famous Dragon that the bikers like to use. This is good country. Check it out. The AT crosses at the dam, too, before bisecting the Smokies.

We camped the first night at Cable Cove, on the south shore of Fontana, and then Saturday night at Proctor, N.C., which is just about straight north across the lake. Since we were new at this it was a slug to get up Hazel Creek to Proctor but fun. We picnicked along the shore (see the photo with the red check table cloth!). A new treat is a tortilla with tuna fish, creamy p.b., and cheese. Mighty fine wrap, indeed. The deceptive part is that the map makes it look easier than when you're at water level!

One the of things to think about is, of course, you are a level "A" while normal pool might be level "B," twenty feet above you. So there's this twenty-foot high bathtub ring all around the lake. Blue water below. Blue sky above. You level is in fact a certain height above sea level and it doesn't change for the trip. There's no such thing as up hill or down hill.

Proctor is a primitive sight, to say the least. Bring you own water. Toilet paper and flashlight. I’ve been in dark campsites but this one really dark.

Kayaking is a different beast from canoeing, to say the least. I think sometimes, strangely, the canoes are more stable than the kayak but I found our tandem to be quite sturdy and reliable underneath us. In the water it sits deep, center of gravity is low, it paddles straight. All good features for having fun without wearing yourself out or worrying endlessly about tipping over. Our advisor said we’d have to go some to tip and I think he’s right. Although we never came close to tipping over, I'd want my try at it to be a little more controlled than in a 300-foot deep lake.

The best way to understand to dynamics would be to load one up and take it to the pool for a trial run. In fact, you'd be wise to test a canoe, too, to understand how they react differently. Also, a lake canoe has a keel. Maybe only one inch but it's 10 feet long or 120 square inches. That's a lot of keel. A lake canoe will drift somewhat in a straight line.  A kayak, lacking a keel, drifts on it's own thoughts.

It’d been hard to sink one, too. You’re are advised to be sure things are firmly attached to the kayak (not you!). I don’t imagine you could ever send one to the bottom once you’re out of it.

Speaking of which, for a coolish day, with lots of wind and water, we were comfortable. Below your waist is below the cockpit cowling. You have on some kind non-cotton pants, sandals, a non-cotton shirt, a rain suit top, the spray skirt, life jacket, and hat. (No life jacket, no go!) All this keeps you dry which keeps you warm. I’d be sure to always pack one extra layer of dry clothes, if only pants and hoodie,  just in case. You cannot be too prepared but remember even though you are carrying all this stuff it still has weight and you still have to propel yourself and it through the water.

My arms are still tired. But I like to think I’d go again soon. This was an enjoyable way to see the lake and some of the back country. We had a good crew of students. I like to think we all had fun. It looked to me like everyone did. Good weather. Bright sun. Calm lake. Warm water. Can't beat that!
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On the Trail, again, northbound from Watauga Dam Road

One of the nicest things about the southbound hike is it becomes a morning or afternoon getaway into the woods. Any time of the year, just about, I can drive up to the trail head (half-hour's drive from my house) hike out to the shelter (one to one-and-a-half hours at the most--one way), then back. Maybe on the outside three hours of the day. I (and you) can do this in the evenings after work. And reach a specific terminal. And, the trail doesn't change elevation (much. Mostly from the road to the top of the dam is the hard part.). From the top the dam to lake shore if you go the entire three or four miles to the other side of the lake. This is one of those rare places where the trail is road level.

The northbound route from Watauga Dam road to the Vandeventer shelter is the norm. It starts straight up from the road, keeps going straight up, and doesn't level off until 4.5 to 5.0 miles. I have started this hike five times in my life and completed it only twice. I have walked south from Vendeventer having done the 13-mile leg from where Tenn. 91 crosses the trail at the head of Stoney Creek, where the Johnson County and Carter County lines meet.

This stretch is one of those places where you learn just how much fun hiking is!

And this section seems to go on forever. It's a slow trudge up hill without much change in the scenery. It's all trees and trail and it's not like you can stop and take sweeping panoramic view of the landscape. There is no landscape. It used to be the trail went along the ridge which really did feel like straight up. Now, it has switch backs which is a bit easier on the wind but adds to the length and drudgery.

But, you do get this beautiful filtered sunlight. In the fall and spring, warm air, air with smell of heat to it, runs up the southern slope. This time of year the butterflies come out in droves seeking that last plant to live from and this same warm updraft brings them right to you. It's easy to work of up a sweat on this section and not go far but just stopping gets you to a different looking spot than the last break (which is why it takes me so long to do this section) and something new to photograph.

Where the southbound stretch is very smooth, the northbound (all the way to Iron Mountain shelter yet another 5 miles up) is a slow foot-at-a-time elevator. It will teach you the value of packing light and wearing the right-weight boots.

But, also I found this time a place maybe only half mile in that would be a great stop in the fall to put up the hammock and just enjoy the afternoon. Might even want to think about spending the night. (Gets cell reception, too.) 
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Bay's Mountain Park, Kingsport, Tennessee

Bays Mountain city park, on the southwestern edge of Kingsport, is a great place to visit and spend some time. They have trails, a planetarium, nature center, captive animals, picnic area, gift shop, an observatory, and a small lake. The lake and dam were the city's water source many years ago and were privately purchased to form the park. It is as good a cross section of southern Appalachian flora and fauna as any in the mountains. It is the hiking that really makes Bays Mountain more than just a city park with a few animals to stare and gawk at.

We hiked the Lakeshore Trail, 2.3 miles, on a hot August afternoon. That was most of the reason we didn't add any new birds. But we did get visited by a Red admiral which feasted on the salt on our fingertips. It tickled! The proboscis is about 1-1 1/2" long and it just checks out every whirl and loop on your fingertip.

There are plenty of side trails (be cautious that the park is edged with private properties). Because there are many roads around the edge of the park bike riding would probably be a lot of fun with the hills and few cars to worry about. The signage was good and with the map we never were concerned about our location.

For Kingsporters, Bays Mountain would be probably a good place to get out of the heat of the bowl that is Kingsport. And into some fresh air.

Getting there is another matter. There's one route leading from Wilcox Road exit off I-26 and one from the Meadowview exit farther up the road from Wilcox. Check google maps for "bays mountain kingsport tenn" for directions.
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The Virginia Creeper Trail

One of the successes over the years has been the Rails-to-Trails program. Locally, in Johnson City, we're going to try it, too, with Tweetsie (East Tennessee and Western North Carolina; ET&WNC) track from Johnson City to Elizabethton being bought by the city. I have had the luxury of hiking part of the Virginia Creeper trail east out of Abingdon, Va., towards the Mt. Rogers Recreation Area and beyond to the North Carolina border.

The trail is smooth, flat, with lots of shade and bridges. The Creeper was a railroad that ended service in the 1970s. The state and local governments secured access to the right-of-way although the literature says the property is still privately owned. The path is wide enough for a pick-up truck to transport mowers and pick up the trash. The bridges are on old trestles. The landscape is beautiful. It's all pasture and we went from near Abingdon to the confluence of the middle and south forks of the Holston where the South Holston Lake backs to just under the trestle. You can't camp. It is a day hiker's and biker's dream.

Whether the Tweetsie plan works like the Creeper is unknown but it could. With plenty of effort and commitment at least there'd be some legacy for the ET&WNC and perhaps a new look and feel to that part of the county.

Our second trip to the Creeper Trail was much shorter (and hotter) but nonetheless quite nice. You can park at various spots along the trail, sometimes on private property and sometimes on public land. So a person could hike various sections. The drive up from Johnson City is quicker each time you make the trip, too.

This time we parked at the Alvarado Station at the very tip of the South Holston Lake backwater. Alvarado is four miles from Mendota Station which is about three and a half miles from Abingdon. What we did was to hike back up the trail to finish up the previous hike and return to Alverado and put in one more mile down trail. Two new miles. Four miles round trip.

By the time you get to Alvarado you're 8.5 miles out from Abingdon.

So the tally now is five miles on the Creeper. I'm sure some readers will scoff and that's okay with me. It's five miles one way and ten miles round trip and that's a lot of walking for me. If you go really early you could hike from Abingdon to Alvarado and back fairly easily.

The entire trail runs from Abingdon through Damascus to Whitetop Mountain below that little notch of Tennessee that sticks into Virgina. You're almost in North Carolina, at the finish. A total of about 34 miles. The map is printed on two sides so I guess the first milestone is to get off page one. The leg between Alvarado and Damascus is seven miles and, having not been on the trail, I can't tell you where you could park between the two for section hiking. Once pass Damascus the trail starts uphill gaining 1,600 feet in 18 miles, or so. Also, despite the legends on the map, do not presume the toilets will be to your liking.

We skipped the trip out from Abingdon partly because the trailhead was slightly difficult to find and we didn't really want to hike in the town.
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Night Jar Survey June 20, 2010

Of the human names and references given to the Natural world perhaps one of the winners is the "night jar" (caprimulgidae) in which Peterson includes the Common nighthawk, Whip-poor-will, and Chuck-wills-widow. The night jar tag might perhaps come from their large beak and "whiskers" that sweep in bugs. Descriptions refer to "large gape," meaning large mouth and so "jar" simply might mean something like "big mouth" jar? Hunting at night (or before dawn) with a larger than usual mouth makes "night jar" sense. One this group does differently from other birds is they rest on the branch lengthwise to the branch instead of cross ways to the branch.

Many universities across the country study populations and dispersing in order to understand health of a species and health of their environment. One of these is the mid-Summer Night Jar survey conducted across the states.

Our group from the Lee and Lois Herndon club covered two routes, in three cars, with ten people. The survey points are predetermined with 10 stops over about 10 miles and takes about three hours. You are required to listen for six minutes, noting who is, and who is not, calling during each minute.

We started about 9:30 p.m. and ended up about 12:30 a.m. It was beautiful night. Quarter moon. Clear sky. Stars and lightning bugs. Next-to-no breeze. It was a good night to be out.

Our two cars went southeast from Johnson City to the other side of Milligan, Tenn., and then mostly around and beyond Milligan eventually to south of the Laurel's picnic area. Our last contact ended something like 11:58!

We counted seven "Whips" and three "Chucks" along with a Screech owl and Great-horned owl, lots of barking dogs, loud radios with and without cars, and a few gunshots (which seemed to quiet the dogs. We had no way of knowing what got shot.).

The whip-poor-will call is paced and precise. It has a monotonous cadence that some of us who have endured seemingly all night long. You have to wonder when he comes up for air. The Chuck-wills-widow is distinctly different. His call is a slurred "__willswi'ow__willswi'ow__willswi'ow" that goes on and on and on and on very fast, almost faster than I can say it. The breath is the "chuck" part. Sibley mentions that the nighthawk's Greek species name (Chordeiles) means "music in the evening." To me this seems more true for the nightjars.

The survey requires a variety of locations so we had a subdivision (got asked by the locals if were interested in buying a house?), intersections, forests, fields, near a stream. Churches are so-so. Be prepared to get inspected by passers-by. Older, country cemeteries are good places to stop. You'll have an open field near you. Parking. Few lights. Little traffic. Just be respectful of somebody's sacred ground. Speaking of which, our last stop was at a cemetery and I have to admit I'm still perplexed by (and we saw this only once) the $3 solar-powered night lights placed in front of tombstones. This was something new!